Date: Thu, 11 Jun 1998 23:51:41 -0500
From: "Phil Wiltfong"
Subject: DML: FUEL ACCUMULATOR INSTALLATION

Finally Installed my Fuel Accumulator and it was much easier than I feared from others' installation experiences. For any who are interested, this is how I did it (beginner's luck):

Important note: USE the accumulator fitting nuts to make all torqueings against the line fittings so as NOT to twist the fuel lines...and cause a Real Bad Thing. I used normal length wrenches, and everything worked just fine, except for getting a little dirty.

REMOVE OLD ACCUMULATOR:

1. Loosen the RIGHT ANGLE fitting first with a 17mm open end wrench, BUT NOT at the accumulator...loosen the fuel line fitting from the right angle fitting only, leaving the fitting in the accumulator.

2. Remove the four (4) 10mm screws mounting the accumulator to the car (cool car, that is).

3. Then, work the accumulator off of the metal fuel line fitting.

4. Pull out the accumulator as far as it will go without straining the hoses, return line (small hose) first.

5. Pull back clip and remove the return line hose from accumulator (watch out for the gas).

6. Now, with accumulator hanging down free from the car, remove the last fitting being careful not to stress the rubber line too much. This will free the accumulator from the car.

7. On the bench, remove the right angle fitting. INSTALL NEW ACCUMULATOR:

8. Remove old rubber gasket (or get new one) and tape onto new accumulator.

9 Install the right angle fitting onto new accumulator, pointing the same direction as on the old one.

10. Install rubber hose line fitting (note angle of hose twist to fit back into car).

11. Install rubber return line onto accumulator and position retaining clip.

12. Position accumulator into car and line up and hand tighten right angle fitting onto the metal fuel line.

13. Replace the bracket and tighten four screws back into place, being careful to retain right angle fitting alignment with fuel line. Smile a little since it is going so well and you're nearly done.

14. Tighten fuel line fitting onto the right angle fitting already on the accumulator.

15. Install a tie wrap or similar to any rubber hoses that need the support.

16. Pressurize the system and check for leaks.

VOILA! NO MORE HOT START PROBLEMS! :-)

Phil Wiltfong
S/N 3394

PS: Thanks to everyone for all the good advice.


In a message dated 7/13/99 4:23:53 PM US Mountain Standard Time, [email protected] writes:

>how hard is it to install a new fuel accumulator?

Erik,
I just spent Father's Day replacing my accumulator. I am not trying to discourage you or anything but what I thought was a two hour job turned out to be a 6 hour project. This did include a trip to the store for a vise and fuel hose (see below).

Check the achieves for a description by Phil Wiltfong from June 11, 1998 for a great procedure for this job.

A couple of things to add to Phil's description.
- when you pull the accumulator down out of the frame be careful not to kink the flexible fuel hose (which I did, thus the need for new hose).I would recommend replacing the hoses while you are in there. It is 1/4" ID. - when you pull off the return hose from the back of the accumulator, have something ready to catch approx. a quart of fuel. I didn't think it would ever stop coming out! - the biggest problem I had was taking off the threaded side of the tube compression fittings. The one on the right angle that you have to loosen up in the frame took 30 minutes of work (and a few choice words) but it finally turned. The two fittings on the accumulator would not budge at all. I had to cut the flexible hose attached to the front side to free the accumulator from the car. I but it in my new vise and got them off with a breaker bar.

Putting it back together was not as bad as taking it off.

Again I do not want to discourage you from trying it yourself. When you finally get it done and back together there is a great feeling of accomplishment.

Steve



From: Dave Swingle

Another comment on accumulator replacement - make sure you remove the small tray at the back of the console, and then the plastic cover plate under that. That is where you can hold the back of the fuel line fitting while you detach it from underneath. If you don't do this you WILL kink the fuel line. At that point, you'll realize that the line is run in-between the frame and the body. Not a pretty thought.



From: Richard Strecker

Maybe I was just lucky but,....it only took me 2 hours to change out the accumulator. Some have taken 6 hours or longer.

The "trick" that I found was to release the hard tube fitting first. This is the one that goes to the 90degree elbow on the accumulator. I used a 17mm tube nut wrench for this. The handle was long enough that I could get an extension (vice grips) on it to get the leverage to break it loose. Once this was done, I undid the four bolts in the bracket & with a little wiggling (of the accumulator) you can pull the entire assembly down through the access hole. It does clear with all hoses connected. At this point you can remove the bottom hose with the hose clamp and then the fitting on the top hose. Be aware that the bottom hose is the return line to the fuel tank and is full of fuel. Have a container ready to catch about a quart of gasoline.

When you are ready to reinstall the accumulator, reattach the hoses. The "trick" here is that the hoses were twisted so that they didn't kink and close off fuel flow. What you have to do is reinstall them with the twist. You'll be able to see pretty quickly just what direction & how much twist you have to put in when you start to reposition the accumulator.

Best of luck on the operation.....

Richard


> I can't get the metal line to release from the accumulator. I can turn the accumulator freely,
> but I can't seem to apply enough force to pull the line out.

Greg;

I have installed several accumulators this summer and have run into the same problem. Make sure the four bolts holding the accumulator are snug and holding the unit in place. Place the brass fitting back on the unit but leave loose,just backed off a turn or two.

Now give the fuel line a sharp rap with a wrench and hammer,not a fatal blow to damage the line. This has worked for me both times and did not cause any damage. The line should now come off when you turn back the brass fitting.

Good Luck

Richard J.Myosky
Vin 4419
Lic. DMC IIX