-2 people (make it easier and you have an extra set of eyes to watch) although you can do it alone.
-2 2.5 - 3 Ton rolling floor jacks. Again you can do it with only one, but it makes it easier.
-15 - 20 cinder blocks (to keep the body on top of while you work)
-a few lengths of 4x4 wood posts. The jacks have a limited travel and some of them cannot lift the body high enough to clear the frame, that's where the wood comes into play. Place them in-between the body and the jack.
-Level area to work on
Body Removal: As always disconnect the battery before doing any work. There are a Total of twelve (12) bolts that are holding the body to the frame. They are as follows: two (2) are in the luggage compartment, each one located above the shock towers.
Six (6) are located inside the car, three (3) on each side of the center console located near the seats. Two of those bolts (out of the six) are holding the seat belts to the frame. Once you unbolt the seat belt from the floor, pull back the carpeting on both sides (the bolts are located right near the seat belt bolt) of the center console and you will see the other four (again 2 on each side).
Four (4) are located in the engine compartment. Here's where it gets tricky. There are two located on the cross member bar (see parts manual). Now from what I understand it is a common problem that the bolt(s) are frozen in there (at least mine was a few other owners have told me). Be careful removing these since the nut is just a cage nut sitting in the frame...you can bend the "cage part" (welded to the frame) and cause the square nut to just spin in there, you'll then have to cut the bolt and use a little ingenuity in getting the other half out of the cage (shocks are in the way). The last two will require the removal of the rear fascia. One you get the fascia off you will se two large openings on either side of the pontoon, the bolts are located in there. You'll have to stick your hand in there with a socket to remove them.
Once you have the bolts removed, disconnect the following: Brake lines to the master cylinder, Clutch line to the Clutch master cylinder, Remove the leather gear shift boot, remove the front ground wires (bolted to the frame), disconnect the ground wire from the battery to the trailing arm bolt, disconnect all the engine wiring harness (behind the ignition coil cover), ground wires going to the engine.
Jack up the body from the sides GO SLOWLY. If you use two jacks, place a piece of wood between the two and place them on both sides of the body under the seat area as close to the edge as possible (stronger area near the bend). DON'T place the jack directly in the center of where the seats are unless you want a floorless Flinstone car. Again, jack up the car slowly and EVENLY. As you jack it up you'll see that the body will start to rock from front to back...use the cinder blocks to prevent that by placing some in the front and on the sides (next to the jacks) as you raise the body.
Is it necessary to remove all those things? Some are...but some you may be able to leave connected since some of the wires are long enough (since you are just lifting the body enough to get to the lines). When you go to replace the fuel lines, be prepared those plastic clips will break when you are removing the old line! I would suggest ordering all those clips holding the fuel line also, they are very inexpensive and I believe DMC Houston has them in stock.
I hope this was semi helpful. I have a few pictures of me removing the body off of the frame completely. If you need any more help you can contact me directly by email if you like.
If you look at the picture titled "delor2.jpg" under the folder Chassis removal in the files section....you'll see that I had to place the body on approx 3 cynderblocks along with a 4X4 wood post in between them. I should also note that I had the front wheels off and the chassis itself was resting on a movers dolly. It gave me more clearence (without having to jack the body up to high) and more control as I was rolling the chassis back under (easier to steer it and line it up). The height I had to jack up the body to get the chassis back under is about the same height you will need to jack it up to have a good working access to the fuel lines. Unfortunatly I don't have measurements...just visuals...sorry.
Again I hope this helps,
From: [email protected]
Ok, total there are 12 bolts that mount the fiberglass underbody to the chassis. Here are there locations:
2 bolts in here. To access the bolts, pull up the carpet (and board insert if applicable). The bolts screw mount, to the inside of the shock towers.
A total 6 bolts here, and all mount to the side of the chassis back bone. The bolts that hold the seatbelt receptacles in. The remaining bolts are located fore and aft of these bolts. To get to the remaining bolts, you will need to pull the carpet on the center console back. If unsure of location, you will can feel the bolts under the carpet.
Total of 4 bolts. 2 are used not just to secure the undebody to the frame, but they also hold the crossbrace in place to strengthen the chassis. They are located to the front of the engine compartment, and bolt just inside of the rear shocktowers. The final two bolts are a bit trickier. Unlike the other bolts, these mount from inside the fiberglass body, and into the chassis. If you are a bit double- jointed, you can access the left side bolt by removing the access panel for the carbon canistor. Otherwise, the only way to access these bolts is to remove the rear facia.
On my car, 3 of the bolts in the passenger compartment had completely fallen out. and two of the bolts in the engine compartment were loose enough that I could simply hand tighten them. The remaining bolts still had a bit of room here and there that I could hit them a little futher in.
Previously, I thought that I was the only person with loose bolts. But now I see that I'm not. It wouldn't hurt for every one here to give the bolts on their cars a good once over. I can't remember the size of the bolts, but I did use a 12' extention where I could to get the bolts in as tight as possible.