Required Reading:

Number 1:Adjusting the torsion bars
Number 2:Reinforcing the torsion bar mount

Adjusting the torsion bars is not a difficult procedure if you prepare properly. First, read the above documents so you can get an idea of what is required. Also, consider reinforcing the torsion bar mount panel if you have the time; it will cure many of the strange noises that may occur when you open and close the doors, as well as keeping the T-roof panel in alignment.

You will want at least 3 people total to perform the procedure. One person to insert/remove the mounting bolts, one person to keep the breaker bar/brace portion together and aligned properly, and one person to wield the breaker bar to wind/unwind the torsion bar itself.

Regarding the tools required: Build the proper brace!!! Attempting this procedure without the brace is suicidal. Also, the 3/8" allen socket, socket extension bar, breaker bar, and breaker bar extending pipe should be high quality pieces. Skimping out here could cost you greatly if any piece breaks during bar load/unload.

Regarding the brace: The instructions don't specify, but you should pad the portion that contacts the rear pontoons with something that wont slip, and wont mar the surface if it does slip. If you don't, and the brace slides around a bit during the procedure, it will scuff the surface up and look like hell.

When it's time to do the procedure, relax. It may not be a bad idea to remove the louvers to give yourself a bit more headroom and clearance. When I adjusted/reinforced my setup, I had the louvers and T-roof panel removed already (due to other projects at the time), and adjustment was a snap. Test fit all of your tools first. Test the alignment of the brace and the bar to insure that the angles are correct. Wrap duct tape around the socket/extension/breaker bar connections so that nothing comes apart at the wrong time. Insure that you have everything you need within reach. Bribe your friends with beer/pizza/other so they have some enthusiasm about helping. Make sure that you have enough headroom in the garage/shop for the end of the breaker bar/pipe extension

When the mount is released from the bar, the downpressure exerted by the bar is about the equivalent of holding a cinder block above your head. You'll get some idea for what it feels like when you add pressure to the bar to free up the mount for unbolting.

If you remove the torsion bar, remember to treat it carefully. They're not cheap. You should also exploit the opportunity you have to clean the bar up with a soft cloth and some rubbing alcohol or something like that. Also, you may want to clean the roof area normally obscured by the torsion bar. If you've been putting off replacing the roof seals, there's no better time than now.

Take your time. Take a few days if necessary. It's worth it in the long run.

Personally, I have my doors adjusted to softly rise to full travel only when it's hot out (60F or above). I don't like the recommended "slight bounce" at the end of travel. I never drive my car in the winter, so the more lax adjustment doesn't affect me, YMMV.

Good luck, and be safe!

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