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Autocad file with the cat flange profile:

Basic DXF

With Dimensions

Project "King Tut's Turbo"

Somewhere around 2007 I started planning to turbocharge my car, but I wanted to do a few things differently from the Island or BAE approaches. I am very busy & very patient, so this took some time finally materialize!

I wanted to follow a similar approach to Island/BAE but "improve that which is improvable" along the way. The end goal isn't crazy horsepower, just more in line with the looks and feel of the car.

Why "King Tut's Turbo"? After a long string of errors and frustrations I thought for sure this project was cursed.


Photo Gallery

There are a lot of words here, maybe you just want to look at pictures and zone out? Gallery of build pics


Project Goals

-Make faster

-Retain K-Jetronic for the lulz


Comparison Between Systems:

  BAE Island Mine My Notes
Number of turbos 1 2 1 "Twin turbo" sounds fun but when the end goal is somewhere around 200BHP, TT adds more complexity than necessary.
Turbo Type Rajay IHI RHB5 Garrett T3

Rajay turbos are nearly extinct outside of the aircraft world.

Lots of IHI available but they mostly seem OEM.

Garrett or Garrett-style are common enough to provide the custom options that I wanted at the best price point.

Turbo Cooling Oil Oil Water & Oil Tons of watercooled turbos these days and connections are not that difficult. No reason not to do it.
Ignition Control Defeat secondary advance Defeat secondary advance MSD 6530 w/ MAP sensor

Removing and clobbering a distributor weight was terrible in the 80's. Reducing the advance statically means that you have to match the turbo to the ignition instead of vise-versa. If you screw around with the wastegate at all then you'll move your boost curve outside of the timing curve and break something.


The MSD 6530 allows for a programmable boost retard curve. Pre-testing showed a minimum of 15° safe distributor phasing was available.

Fueling & Open Loop Strategy Ground O2 sensor Ground O2 sensor

(2015) Enrichment via adjustable Hobbs switches:

1psi: Ground WOT switch for "open loop" mode

  • Puts FV at 63% duty cycle
  • Ensures no fuel meddling while under boost


6psi: Ground K-jet terminal 11

  • Used in Volvo turbo cars as "Overboost" enrichment
  • Puts FV at 90+% duty cycle


(2016) UTCIS-PT:
Digital, programmable control pressure regulator. Allows for fine tuning fuel under boost.


(2017) Megasquirt 3X

K-jet is gone!

On low boost (5psi) the overboost switch is just there as a precaution.


WBO2 logging shows fuel to be good with the WOT switch grounded.


Added the UTCIS in 2016 and now the enrichment curve is much more tailored.


Converted to Megasquirt in 2017 and tuning is now instant and beautiful

Materials Conventional steel or aluminized pipes Cast iron manifolds
Steel mufflers
All TIG welded stainless pipes & flanges Um, stainless, duh!
System Monitors Boost gauge Boost gauge

Boost gauge

WB02 Gauge

Innovate LC-1 WBO2 controller

Innovate LMA-3 Auxbox:

  • MAP
  • FV duty cycle
  • RPM

Innovate SSI-4:

  • Wheel speed
  • Idle air duty cycle %

Not as comprehensive as modern fuel injection, but I can log a decent amount of data for analysis.


2017: Converted to MS3X and now have data overload!

Wastegate External, discharge through golf cart muffler. Outlet is directed at piping. Two bolt flange. Internal, routed back into turbo discharge.

External. V-band flange.

Initial setup: Screamer pipe directed at ground

Final: Separate wastegate muffler routed to LH exhaust tip.

The Island exhaust pipes are nicely formed but still regular steel.

The BAE is routed funny and dumps out onto it's own muffler piping. Seems kludgey.

My initial wastegate setup was loud, really loud.

The dedicated wastegate muffler keeps things calm but aggressive.


Other alterations & improvements:



Build Notes / Issues / Solutions:

Water Lines:

Cylinder heads have M16 x 1.5 plug. It was a simple matter to remove the plug, install an adapter, and make up some hose.

For the water return, I tee'd the heater return as it offers a constant circulation path. Be sure to route things so air can bleed out.

With the cylinder head being slightly higher than the heater return line, I should get a bit of convection circulation when engine is off.

CAUTION: Exclusively using the heater coolant lines to cool the turbo could be bad as circulation will be shut off in Max A/C mode. Plus you'll have to run a lot more hose around the motor to the turbo. If you prefer this approach you will want to tap the heater core hose BEFORE the AC valve.

Oil drain & Oil Consumption Problems:

After a few test drives it was obvious something was not correct with oiling. The car would produce an impressive blue cloud at startup. Other than the smoke it ran very well!

Solving an oil-in-intake problem is a diagnosis of exclusion. If you're running turbos in draw-thru its even more complicated since you have to be sure your compressor seal is correct.

Research showed these as the likely culprits:

  1. Oil drain insufficient
  2. Oil feed excessive
  3. Excessive crankcase pressure
  4. Bearings or seals are worn
  5. Improper or insufficient rebuild

1: Drain Problem?

I followed the BAE parts listing and drain recommendation. The drill location given by BAE is probably not the best. In practice there are a few problems with blindly drilling the lower crankcase:

  1. If you don't drill spot-on, you'll run into a crankcase support rib. Tapping the hole will be challenging.
  2. The oil deflector is right under the BAE location and also makes drilling a challenge. It may present a block to oil flow as well.
  3. Being high up on the block, you don't get a lot of help from gravity if the turbo sits low.

I drilled in the BAE location and ran into serious drain problems. I also discovered that cheap -AN fittings may have the incorrect ID and clog things up.

The -10AN (5/8") lines and fittings included with the BAE kit are probably barely adequate. I ended up going to -12AN / 3/4" to really ensure good drain flow.


I capped the lower crankcase hole and drilled high into the drain pan instead. This is below the oil line. Draining below the oil line is considered a cardinal sin in the turbo world.

My drain might be below the oil line but with the engine running enough oil is up in the motor and heads that the sump level is lowered. Also I've aimed my oil drain toward the pickup to get in on some oil suckin' vortex action. The bottom line is I had no issues. [Cold oil proof] [More]


2: Oil Feed Problem?

This seemed like an unlikely cause but I ran in to a lack of scientific data. All I wanted to know was: What kind of pressures should I see on the oil feed, and/or what kind of flow should I see at the drain.

I spent way too much time trying to get an answer and came up empty. Some older turbocharging books specify that around 10psi / RPM should be about the max oil pressure a turbo should see. I purchased a mechanical gauge to measure pressure post-restrictor. With a .035 restrictor (which is minuscule) you still see 10psi / 1K RPM. At 035 I still had oil in the intake. Not a feed line problem.


3: Excessive Crankcase pressure?

Even after moving the drain I still had oil in the intake. I took a page from Porsche and rigged up a vented drip tank. Still had oil issues. Now I knew the problems must be related to the turbo.

Eventually I removed the vented tank and went back to 3/4" drain line for simplicity.

Oil drain (and other turbo) photos


4: Bearings or Seals are worn?

This rebuild had no shaft play so bearings were unlikely. But I'd ruled out oiling so the only logical step was:


5: Improper Rebuild?

Yes, this was the problem. Chief error was the rebuilder not using gasket maker when pressing a new encapsulated carbon seal into the compressor backplate. Found a few other possibilities while I was in there, too. The sordid details are spelled out in the "2015" section toward the bottom.

If I were to select a new turbo for draw-through use, I would try to find a backplate that uses a 4-piece carbon seal instead of the 1-piece. In theory the 4-piece seal would provide one less path for intake vacuum to pull oil out of the turbo.



Build Timeline:


"I should turbocharge this"

Consider TD04 from 2.0 Subaru WRX. Solid performer and loads of them available. Stock WRX make 227 horsepower which is close to target.

Obtained a TD04 but flanges are goofy and uncommon. Clocking a TD04 is challenging since it has a locating dowel and the CHRA is seized to the turbine housing. Carbon seal for draw-through does not seem to be an option. Consider alternatives.

Research ignition timing control options. Hate the idea of the distributor mod.

Read about the MSD 5462 Boost Timing Master which seemed like a great option, but would need to be modified for odd-fire ignition use.


October I sent a few questions to MSD about the box, including the odd-fire compatibility question:

"Out of the box the 5462 will not work with an odd fire motor,
but we do offer a conversion service or you can special order one
from your dealer so that we can convert one off of the shelf and
then the dealer has us drop ship it to your location."


May: Purchase LC-1 for wideband O2 logging.[Photos]


June: Use "Summit Bucks" to buy lots of hose and oil fittings.

Purchase & install LMA-3 to log MAP, RPM, and stuff [Photos]

Install O2 gauge and boost gauge [Photos]

Purchased a Vortech / MSD 54621 unit on eBay. Identical function to the 5462 but painted blue as it was packaged with a Vortech Mustang supercharger kit.

Opened RMA and sent it to MSD. Received unit back in a week with a note - "Unit cannot be modified for odd-fire. Unit tests OK" along with a bill for testing.

I was a little annoyed but maybe the 54621 was cost-reduced and really wasn't modifiable. Put it on eBay and recovered most of my money.


August: Purchased a proper 5462 unit from eBay. Needed funds and sold it next March.



2009 - 2011:

Bought a new house, had another kid, started a business, did lots of other non-turbo stuff to the car.

Purchased all of the intake pipes for a BAE single-turbo setup from someone on DMCTalk. Now that's a time saver!




August: Bought a brand-new MSD 5462.

Opened RMA and sent it to MSD. Received unit back in a week with a note - "Unit cannot be modified for odd-fire. Unit tests OK" along with a bill for testing.

Enraged, I call MSD. On the phone they tell me the 5462 can't be modified.

Go online to the MSD forums. An official MSD tech on the forum says it can.

Call them back and they unapologetically suggest I buy a whole huge pile of much more expensive parts - Digital 6AL box, MAP sensor, etc. "Customer service" is questionable.

Resell this 5462 on eBay and recoup losses.


November: Purchase an MSD 6530 and 23121 MAP sensor from seller on eBay. Buying a secondhand setup is my small form of protest.




April: Install 6530 ignition, running in "points" trigger mode. This leaves the existing ignition system in place and uses the coil signal to trigger the MSD. [Photos]

Problem: Lots of stuff in the DeLorean runs off of the coil tach signal. The "tach signal" is the inductive feedback high-voltage pulse when the coils magnetic field collapses. I can't hook the DMC factory tach lines to the MSD coil wires because of the crazy high primary voltages. This would probably set the car up in smoke if I tried. MSD offers a "tach adapter" but I have a car show the following day that I'd really like to attend.

Solution: Williams pinball machine coil connected to stock ignition. Bosch ignition unit charges the coil and the coil gives an inductive kick that simulates a regular tach signal.

Pinball-based ignition does not win me any car show awards.


May: Wire the distributor inductive pickup directly to the MSD. Purchase and install MSD tach adapter 8920.

Problem: Assembled the pickup wires out of phase. Engine still runs but sounds like Harley and is not too enthusiastic about revving. Timing light shows ignition advance in the stratosphere.

Solution: Reverse wires and all is well.

Other benefits: Going directly to hall effect pickup removes 2° worth of latency from timing. Instead of readjusting the distributor, I use the programmable RPM retard curve to set 12° at idle and go all in at 1500.


June: Josh @ DPI posts a bunch of Island twin turbo kits on DMCTalk. Price is too good to pass up. Looks like I'm going twin turbo instead!

Realize during disassembly that these Island parts are seriously beat up. The exhaust manifold castings are suspect. The wastegates are frozen solid. Begin rework on manifolds in anticipation of obtaining proper parts. [Pics]


October: During assessment of the Island parts, I realize that the twin turbos that I received have mismatched exhaust housings. Email Josh @ DPI to get one or both replaced.


November: Email Josh again about the turbos. He is researching options.




Call & email DPI throughout 2014 regarding my unusable turbo kit.


Offer the Island kit on DMCTalk and enjoy an endless onslaught of lowballing ($200 shipped?). I did receive a respectable offer for the the mufflers and sold them to another owner.


April: Decide single turbo is the way to go. Buy eBay Chinese T3/T4 turbo. Plan is to have it rebuilt & rebalanced by Blaast Performance with Garrett bearings & carbon seal backplate.




March: Josh accepts remainder of kit in trade for 134a A/C retrofit kit.


April: Decide that this is the year. Serious work begins. [Complete Album]

Reroute LH coolant hose to make room for intake piping


June:Send in turbo for rebuild, carbon seal / watercooled center section upgrades.

During this process Blaast magically converts my Chinese T3 into a Garret T3. This new turbo is seems to be from a 1980's Nissan 300ZX. Slightly annoyed because inlet is 60mm but the turbo I sent was 3". Nothing that can't be adapted.


June/July: Lots of fitting and fabrication.


September: On 9/20, first test drive is made. Results are positive but oil is making its way into the intake. Produces a cloud of blue smoke on startup. Car runs very well otherwise even with this "octane dilution injection" system.


September - November: For two months I go back & forth with Blaast about my oil in the charge pipes. I'm told to make sure the drain isn't backing up. I do some observations with clear tubing and it is. I move the oil drain from BAE suggested location to side of oil pan. Also upsize to -12AN (3/4") drain hose. BAE suggests -10AN which is 5/8" and doesn't seem to leave much margin of error. This location works much better and does not back up. He suggests that I run a heavier oil weight - no change. Still a smoke machine.

With new drain in place I'm still getting oil into the charge piping. With the drain positively situated I turn my attention to the oil feed and ask Blaast for appropriate feed pressures which they cannot quote me. I dig into a few old references like "Maximum Boost" and "Turbochargers" and finally find a table of flow per RPM with no corroborating references. Neat!

I rig up a mechanical gauge on the turbo feed and verify that I have reasonable oil pressure with a .065 restrictor. Swap to .035 and still have book-safe pressure but that seems like a frighteningly small orifice. Drive around, still have oil in the intake even at .035".

I turn my attention back to the drain. Just because I can drain oil at idle doesn't mean it isn't backing up under load, either due to flow or crankcase pressure. I fabricate a 500ml drip tank to act as a drain reservoir with a vent to allow oil in with no pressure restrictions. Problem still not solved and oil in/out is clearly not where the problem lies.

The last straw with Blaast, when I knew I was going to have to take matters in to my own hands, was this "tip": The carbon seal becomes tight only when it spins. if at cold startup at idle your turbo doesn’t spin (most likely the case) there’s a chance it leaks until the turbo starts spinning. That means, if you rev the engine at startup to help the turbo going, it could stop your smoking issue. This is crazy talk. Carbon seal, draw through turbo were factory options on catalyzed cars so there is no f***ing way oil burning or oil consumption like this should be normal.


On November 15th I remove the turbo and disassemble it. This is what I find:

  1. The encapsulated carbon seal was not pressed into the backplate with gasket maker. This allows oil to be pulled around the seal and get into the intake.
  2. The surface of the carbon seal had a fairly pronounced scratch.
  3. The backplate was not tightened fully which allowed the compressor wheel to contact the backplate.
  4. The compressor wheel had an improper center bore and had to be pried off of the shaft. The wheel should have been sized for a 1/4" shaft but was definitely smaller. Bent it slightly in the process of removing it.
  5. While I didn't pay for a 360 thrust bearing or step-gap piston seal, they were not installed and I wasn't offered the option (which I would have elected to do)

After finding the above I was absolutely livid and attempted to seek restitution through Paypal. Paypal automatically escalated and denied my claim because the turbo had been installed. Well duh, how would I have known it was defective if I hadn't installed it?! This logic confounds Paypal and they stop responding to emails.

Ordered a new compressor wheel on November 17. Arrived Nov 30 but sized for a 6mm shaft not 6.35 (1/4"). Seller was apologetic but gave 2 week delay on proper compressor. Proper compressor wheel arrived on December 24th.

I purchased another T3 rebuild kit from G Pop Shop and chose the 360/step gap options. Re-rebuilt the turbo using Gpop kit, all goes well for the most part. Gpop suggests Loctite 515 when installing the carbon seal. I have 518,close enough right? Turns out that 518 must be more reactive with aluminum or something because when I press the new seal in it begins to drag and snaps right in half.

Order 2 new carbon seals just in case :) Also order Loctite 515. This time the new seal goes in without drama.

On the 24th I attempt to reassemble the turbo. New compressor wheel slides on perfectly but turbine side pops out when installing the compressor. No big deal, I'll just push the turbine side back in. But it doesn't go back in. Sometimes you have to tap them with a hammer to get them to seat, right? Encourage it with a hammer, still won't seat. Remove the turbine & shaft - ring seal has jumped out of the groove, gotten smashed up, and looks like a deformed noodle. Order a new step-gap seal on eBay.



January: Saturday the 9th is a freakishly warm weather day. Install the new ring seal, reassemble the turbo, and get the whole damn thing bolted back together, fluids back in, etc. Spent about 5 hours in total.

Start the car - fires right up. No crazy noises from the turbo so I can only assume that I didn't botch the re-rebuild. Let it run for 30 minutes, revving occasionally to increase the vacuum on the compressor side.

Evening of the 9th I made a deal for a UTCIS-PT digital control pressure regulator. This should make things interesting. The irony is that with the UTCIS I can convert to blow-through turbo which would have easily prevented all of these oil burning problems.


Sunday the 10th the temps plummet and we get snow big time. Cold start the car and no blue cloud. At this point I'm starting to feel like maybe this thing might work after all.


Jan/Feb/Mar: Drive the car repeatedly, take some data logs, pull intake piping. Absolutely no oil. But the car is leaner than it should be.


March: Test install UTCIS-PT. Works great but the warmup mode isn't really set up to work with the DeLorean correctly. It doesn't emulate the vacuum-based cold startup enrichment. Email the UT folks and begin working with them on a solution. Suggested some potential changes to the firmware and software.


April: Exhaust is finally finished!

The UT folks disappeared for almost a month and I have decided to implement my own cold on-throttle enrichment. It will use a Hobbs vacuum switch attached to the thermo vacuum valve, and connected to K-Jet Terminal 11 through a time-delay falling edge trigger relay. When the manifold hits -4"/Hg, the relay will enable enrichment, and I will be able to adjust the amount of time the mixture is to remain enriched. UT finally did get back and offered a solution that required a firmware update but some of the time variables would be set in firmware and not be adjustable in software. They also refused to make any software changes even though the software could desperatly use an update (a genuine control pressure mapping table would be fantastic!)

Once I know that the UTCIS works, I will probably convert to blow-through turbo in the near future. I've located a bolt-on hat from DMC California for the metering unit that would make connecting charge piping simple.


May: Figured out how to make the UTCIS software run in Windows 10.

Car runs decently well under load but still makes a funny sound on boost but only in low gears. Hoping it's something rubbing/banging around but can't discount part-throttle knock. Doesn't really match the sound of knock.

Car idles funny and loves to pop afterfires if free revved. Driving around one day I could hear signs a vac leak. Decided to do some boost leak testing. Found an intake gasket had torn. Also found my vac lines for the MAP sensors would not reliably hold boost pressure. Suspected leaks at threading for Hobbs switches, too. Removed all intake pipes and had bungs welded in, cut new gaskets, upgraded vac lines and did pressure tests.

Also noticed one of my exhaust band clamps was leaking. The exhaust pipes at that junction were butted together and not a solid fit.


June: Reassemble intake system with modified adapters and new elbow at turbo. Can't stop looking at the turbo intake pipe and rear frame proximity.

Restart car and notice improved idle. Afterfires minimized. Wedge chunk of rubber between intake pipe and frame and go for a drive. First half of the drive the noise was gone and the car sounded great and ran great. After a few miles the noise returned. When I got home the chunk of rubber was gone. Ordered an additional U-bend for the inlet pipe to help relocate it further from the frame.


July: Big run-up in anticipation of DCS 2016, lots of effort goes into other areas (steering, AC, brakes). Put 800 miles on the car driving to and from Springfield and no engine-related issues to speak of. MPG is 20+ but there is still room in the tune to improve that. Still have this infernal noise which I'm beginning to suspect is due to week motor/trans mounts. It still sounds a bit like spark knock / ping but only does it in higher torque gears (2,3,4). If you lug it in 5th it's dead silent.

Inspect motor & trans mounts. They are shot, totally shot. Here's hoping that the metallic sound something banging around as the motor torques off of it's mounts.

The fuel pump was whining during the return trip, the alternator is slowly leaking it's voltage regulator out of the bottom.

On the plus side, I pick up a great deal on a water/meth injection system and will get that going!


August: Meth injection kit is installed. Ticking sound disappears the instant water is injected which pushes my suspicions back toward spark knock or light preignition. Reinspection if intake shows meth is removing brozing of intake from oil.


September: The night before leaving for the Michigan Fall Tour I notice some oil fill blowby. With the cap removed I'm getting smoke from the oil fill port, not an epic amount but more than I would expect. Timing of this seems to coincide with the water injection system.

Run a scope around the various pertinant engine locations (cylinders, exhaust ports, valve train).

Say "F it" and take the tour anyway, about 500 miles round trip. Drive up to Harbor Springs and change to 20w50 just in case the oil is thinned. No affect.

Car performs without issues for the tour. Average 25.6MPG on the drive up (75-82mph). This car instantly boosts, so in 5th just a slight incline will go open loop and rise 2-3psi. Given the circumstances I'm super happy with that mileage.

Even though it's running well, I still have observable smoke blowby. I was running a breather filter on the oil cap and smoke will roll out of it on load. It's comical, really. During some spirited portions of the tour the amount of smoke seemed inconsistent.

Based on the symptoms I'm not entirely convinced of piston or piston ring problems but perhaps scratched cylinder walls (carbon scoring from water injection cleaning) or stuck piston rings (water/meth/oil mixture becoming lodged in piston grooves). A visual inspection will hopefully answer that question.


October: Reroute PCV to turbo inlet to allow for additional purging of crankcase. Replace factory intake breather system. After some flogging the amount of blowby seems lessened. Resolved to convert to blow through to reduce amount of oil entering crankcase. The turbo & carbon seal is good but a tiny amount may still get by. Then it either pools into the turbo or pools in the piping. I suspect any pooled oil will crawl along the tubing boundry layer and favor entry into lead pistons 3 and 6.


November: Pulled plugs on 5 and 6. Plug 6 (closest to back of car) is a little dirtier than 5, which could reinforce the hypothesis about oil entering rearmost cylinders and possibly causing stuck rings.

Winter plan


Also coming up with plan B in case a rebuild is called for.



January: Purchased most of an unused Megasquirt 2 EFI kit.

February - September: Removed K-Jet and installed EFI. Converted from draw-thru to intercooled blow-thru. Enhanced PCV.